Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [patto] Belaying 2nd from ground level built anchor : Edit Log




bearbreeder


Oct 25, 2012, 9:57 PM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [patto] Belaying 2nd from ground level built anchor
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its RC ... like the twilight zone what goes on here has little bearing on what people do outside Wink

most people i know use autoblock ... at least on harder routes with good anchors

the best device for autoblock that ive used so far has been the mammut alpine smart, feeds much easier than an ATC guide, and i have no problem feeling the amount of tension

as to the OPs question you can belay off yr harness, or if you feel the person will hangdog, you may be able to extend the anchor using the rope to the edge and set up a masterpoint there and use the autoblock ...

see here ...

http://www.climbing.com/...a-multi-pitch-route/


one thing to be aware of if belaying off the harness is the possibility of using the rope tie in to prevent the squishy ballz syndrome ... dont use the yos finish in this case ... and practice it as there have been drops by people not used to belaying off the harness from a top position


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Oct 25, 2012, 10:02 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Oct 25, 2012, 9:59 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Oct 25, 2012, 10:02 PM


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