Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [shotwell] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups: Edit Log




zxcvbnm


Oct 26, 2012, 7:07 PM

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Registered: Nov 12, 2011
Posts: 16

Re: [shotwell] FYA (For Your Amusement) - women and pull ups
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Exactly, if the top 100 climbers on 8a.nu avg. only 5'6 then that means that the majority of elite climbers are short. What else do i need to say?

Of course there are lots of exceptions and avg-ish, small, and even a lil on the big side can still be elite climbers. That's what i was saying before, height is only a small piece of the pie. So it's not suprising that a couple inches above average 6'1 guy like sharma can climb 9b and onsight 14b, and a tiny 5'2 ramon julian can climb 9a+ and onsight 14c, even though they are very different.

And about the jimmy webb thing, I think in general the advantages of tall climbers are much more pronounced than the advantages of short climbers. If you ask a new climber they will probably say it's easier for the tall people.(especially if the new climber is short) We hear "height dependant" a.k.a. hard for short people (most of the time) b/c it's blatantly obvious when you can't reach the next hold easily.

However the disadvantages of tall climbers are much more natural and ingrained. Every time they make a move on overhanging terrain the holds are smaller for them, they are fighting poorer arm leverage and a worse weight/strenght ratio, as well as more torque. However it's never really seen as them being disadvantaged (even though they are), it simply seems and looks like their not strong enough and not a good enough climber.


(This post was edited by zxcvbnm on Oct 26, 2012, 7:09 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by zxcvbnm () on Oct 26, 2012, 7:09 PM


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