Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Red Rocks rappel sling failure--no injuries: Edit Log


Oct 28, 2012, 3:53 PM

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Registered: Jan 6, 2004
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Red Rocks rappel sling failure--no injuries
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My partner and I climbed the first four pitches of Gift of the Wind Gods yesterday. It is a great line with decent climbing on mediocre rock. We did notice a number of substandard 1/4 inch bolts on the first four pitches before we bailed due to lack of time and not being prepared to lead this climb with moderate objective hazard at an adequate speed. When we bailed from pitch four, we rappelled to a fall line 60 meter rappel station (not part of the route). Here was my first experience in over 20 years of climbing of anchor failure. The anchor consisted of two 1/4 inch bolts with a single piece of 3/4 inch webbing looped through in an American death triangle. The webbing was intact but didn't look good so I backed it up with my own, and I backed up the entire station with a cam for the first rappeler. The existing sling failed during my rappel, and my backup system held with about 1/2 inch extension. it's a good reminder that fixed anchors do fail. More accidents obviously are waiting to happen.

Alex Thayer

(This post was edited by alexkthayer on Oct 28, 2012, 5:17 PM)

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Post edited by alexkthayer () on Oct 28, 2012, 5:17 PM

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