Forums: Community: Campground: Re: [lena_chita] that's teh way teh pros due it: Edit Log




Partner camhead


Nov 12, 2012, 12:13 PM

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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20796

Re: [lena_chita] that's teh way teh pros due it
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lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
drivel wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
no climbings this weke end; more werkz = lame.

on the plus side, heading out to RR next weke end to climb more sandstones.

probibly jtree over thanksgivingz.

I assume that both kamhed and lena are werking their respective projekts at teh gnu and red, and both complaining that it's too warm. well, kamhed has already thrown out the warmth as a pre-emptive excuse on a minimum of two internetz forums, and I'm just guessing that it'll be a bit smarmy at the solar collector.


It was definitely warm. But I still sent. That thing took way more time than I thought it would. Dribble also did some gneiss tard routes off the couch. Was a really good trip.

dribble clymes?

apparently, yesh. 5.11 trad, even. 5.10 with 40 foot runouts! (was snadbagged by camhat on my first route in 2 months. "lead the warmup" he says, "its awesome" he says.)

If that runout was 40 feet, then my ____ is 16 inches.

I would be careful with statements like that, if I were you. I am sure dribble will be able to disregard your screams of pain and to stretch _____ to the required length, in order to prove the point. If the thing falls off, as a result of stretching... just saying!


In other news, I have determined that I am imminently susceptible to mental suggestion. I got on Crown of Thorns, even though I was intimidated as heck by camhead's opinion that I would totally hate the route. Just as I was getting to the giant hueco and what looked like the reachy crux of the route, Shaun casually mentioned that his friend Ben, he of the 5.14 FA fame, took a long time to figure out that move out of the hueco, and was really mad at the beanpoles.

Next word out of my mouth, as I fail to reach the lip of the hueco? Of course, "TAKE"! But that move wasn't even the hardest one on the route!!!! Definitely not the reachiest!!!! And it took me about 30 sec to figure it out, once I got really mad. Sigh... I really wish BANZ was there, instead of Shaun. He knows just the right mix of mocking and encouragement to get me to believe in myself. Mad

Still, wouldn't want to hang the draws on that one! But I did hang my own draws on BEHJ.

Aw, you shouldn't have listened to Shaun. I would have just told you that a short person would have an easier time getting a high left heel on that move out of the Hueco. What was the reachiest move? That one out of the cool undercling pocket at the base of the top headwall?

Heel, what heel? No, I didn't use the heel, it was too far. And I didn't rock over on the high left foot and go up with the left hand from the rail coming out of the hueco. I pushed with left toe and went up with the right hand first, then got the left hand crimp, turned it into a fingerlock, and went with right to the jug. The cool undercling pocket on the headwall was not reachy, either. The reachiest move was above the last bolt, before reaching the anchor-clipping jug. I had to use an unchalked intermediate crimp.


camhead wrote:
And funny story about "hanging your own draws..."

In the gym the other night, N. was talking about a proj she had at the Red, which she needed B. to "hang the draws" on for her.

Me and Ande busted out laughing at this. After N. asked us why this was so funny, we told her what "hanging the draws" meant. She obviously did not fully get the gist of the entendre, because she simply said, with a disgusted look on her face, "Whatever you guys! I'll just hang my own draws!" To which we laughed even more.

Gud thymes.

LOL! In this case, I probably shouldn't make a big deal out of the fact that I hung the draws for N. on BEHJ. Well, I hung them for both N and B., as it happens... OI! NO, we will not go there!

Yeah, I went up with the right hand first, after matching on that rail. Slopy rail with both hands, toe in down low on the left, then reach up with right, then with left to the jug.

And you hanging the draws for N... AngelicAngelicAngelic

(wekely edited to pertekt anonimity)


(This post was edited by camhead on Nov 12, 2012, 12:14 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by camhead () on Nov 12, 2012, 12:14 PM


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