Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: West Coast Weekend Warrior Update: Edit Log




donald949


Nov 15, 2012, 9:20 AM

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Registered: May 24, 2007
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West Coast Weekend Warrior Update
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Time for a little West Coast update. Help keep the warrior thread alive.

For a month, we were planning a Vets Weekend Red Rock Trad climbing trip. But Thursday night the rain is coming down, the weather radar shows heavy rain on the RR's, and the local gym there says don't come here. Thanks Brutus.

Well we did make it to Josh over the weekend. Drove out Sun, came back Mon. Over all very good.

Sunday we jump on a "5.4" Final Act on Playhouse rock. From the ground the pro looked ok, but actually the pro went very well. However, the climb went a fair bit harder than 5.4. At 120-130 feet, I had to belay everyone up from the top, in the shade, and cold wind. Buddy said I looked blue. After that we drove to the section of the park that had cell reception so one of our party could reach her freinds to bum a ride home. After floundering around for a bit, the sun set, it got cold and I gave up on trying to set up another climb. We sent two of our party on there way, the one get her ride, and called it a night.

On a side note, looks like Santana's has upgraded their burritos. One guy got the 1 pound burrito. It was literally 1 pound of meat. By the end, he was hurting, but he killed it.

Monday my buddy wants to climb a 4 pitch 350' 5.5. Alright, should be doable. But the projects says the first bolt is 30 foot up, with some marginal gear before that. Well that should work, I've gotten on some climbs that are 25 feet to the first bolt with no gear. We make the little hike out there, scout the area, find the climb. There is a second well up the first pitch in the main crack, I watch. More OW thrashing where they're at, but looks doable. Turn my attention to the bottom. About 15' of 5.1 steps to a small ledge. Then a high mantle onto another small ledge. Then off to the right to a groove that turns a crack that probably takes one small nut. Then back to the left for about 20+ feet of smooth featureless low angle slab to first bolt. Then 10 feet up to the main crack and some gear. The 30 feet to the bolt turned out to be really closer to 60, the one crack looks to take one piece fine, but is listed as marginal. Wouldn't protect from crashing onto the ledges at all, and is well to the right of the fall line. Wouldn't protect from ground fall near the bolt. Ledges are not wide enough to protect from tumbling off. The ground is a small boulder field. The mantle and slab look way committing. All that to get to one tiny little bolt way up the face. But still, only listed as 5.5. Should be doable. Scout it out some more, nope, still not any better. Look it over again. Gonna have to take a pass.

Buddy suggests Trash Can Rock, where we got cell reception Sunday. Its short, only 40 feet. But its in the sun, and we could be warm. Yes, being warm would be great. I climb B2, more easy OW thrashing, and set a TR. Buddy does the climb, and cleans the gear. Then he TR's the 10a to the left. I do the 5.8 all feet on the prow in between. Cool climb. He does the prow, and the climb to the right. I do one last lap, break down the anchor and walk off the back. I must say it was good to be warm that day.

Good day all in all. Good weekend at Josh, even after having to bail on Red Rocks due to rain, getting blue from cold, getting stuck by a thorn just outside the tent, and having the insoles of my shoes crack open. Can't wait for the next trip.


(This post was edited by donald949 on Nov 15, 2012, 9:21 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by donald949 () on Nov 15, 2012, 9:21 AM


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