Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Stuck at V6/V7 : Edit Log


Nov 16, 2012, 10:22 PM

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Registered: Aug 9, 2011
Posts: 5

Stuck at V6/V7
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Hi all! So I'm perhaps where many of you are or have been. I suppose I'll tell you a little about myself that way you can help to better fill my gaps.

Lately I've been climbing 5 times a week, 2-4 hours a day at a local gym (not a rock gym but they have a respectable 50 ft wall with a couple of arches). Unfortunately, I'm the only one who knows how to set (I work the wall) and no matter how hard I try, I can only set up to V7. I have previous setting experience from my collegiate climbing days, during which we were trained by a local level 2 route setter in order to set for CCS comps). Despite the inability to project V8's and above, I do push myself when I'm not working problems. I'll improvise on the wall and constantly test my limits. I'm a fan of traversing. I once loved slopers and hated crimps but ever since I've started working here, I've slowly come to embrace both. A daily routine consists of traversing, 4x4s, active recovery training, core work out (2ce a week), and hang board exercises.

It's come to a point where I can now flash V6s with ease and red point sevens after one or two tries. The reason I know I'm stuck on this plateau is that after 2 months of training/working at this gym I competed at a local comp and sent all of the sixes and sevens yet I couldn't finish an 8.

Also, I know, I know, I should be climbing outdoors more often but I live in Houston so what can I say. Granted I will be going back to Hueco for a few days in the next couple of weeks :D

Anyway, what can I doooo? Also, any tips on setting routes that are above your difficulty level?? Every time I set with the intention of achieving an 8, I put harder and harder holds, and every time I somehow end up sending the route the same day. I fail at life -___-

(This post was edited by NerdyRocks on Nov 16, 2012, 10:29 PM)

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Post edited by NerdyRocks () on Nov 16, 2012, 10:26 PM
Post edited by NerdyRocks () on Nov 16, 2012, 10:29 PM

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