Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [jomagam] Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie: Edit Log




USnavy


Nov 17, 2012, 12:31 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
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Re: [jomagam] Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie
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jomagam wrote:
Finally saw it today; two random questions:

1. Why are climbers who are great enough to make it into such a movie grab the rope while falling ?
Because there is a difference between being a professional and being an expert. Climbing 5.15 does not make you an expert, it makes you strong. Sure one could argue it makes you an expert on climbing movement, but it does not make you an expert in all aspects of climbing. There are a number of guys in the Real Rock Film tour that I would not let belay me. I know because I have climbed with some of them. Take a look at the front cover of the new RRG guidebook. It shows Sharma climbing some .14. Take a look at the first quickdraw. It is backclipped... In fact, some of the strongest people I have ever climbed with were complete shit belayers. I climbed with a guy who linked the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome in a day and he dident even know how to belay on a sport climb! I kept getting hard ass catches all week from him! I explained how to preform a soft catch to him a number of times and he just dident get it. I guess that is what happens when you try to climb hard sport with a trad climber...


(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 17, 2012, 12:39 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Nov 17, 2012, 12:32 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Nov 17, 2012, 12:37 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Nov 17, 2012, 12:37 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Nov 17, 2012, 12:39 AM


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