Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [USnavy] Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie: Edit Log

Partner camhead

Nov 18, 2012, 7:48 AM

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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
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Re: [USnavy] Questions apropos of the Reel Rock 2012 movie
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USnavy wrote:
jomagam wrote:
Finally saw it today; two random questions:

1. Why are climbers who are great enough to make it into such a movie grab the rope while falling ?
Because there is a difference between being a professional and being an expert. Climbing 5.15 does not make you an expert, it makes you strong. Sure one could argue it makes you an expert on climbing movement, but it does not make you an expert in all aspects of climbing. There are a number of guys in the Real Rock Film tour that I would not let belay me. I know because I have climbed with some of them. Take a look at the front cover of the new RRG guidebook. It shows Sharma climbing some .14. Take a look at the first quickdraw. It is backclipped... In fact, some of the strongest people I have ever climbed with were complete shit belayers. I climbed with a guy who linked the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome in a day and he dident even know how to belay on a sport climb! I kept getting hard ass catches all week from him! I explained how to preform a soft catch to him a number of times and he just dident get it. I guess that is what happens when you try to climb hard sport with a trad climber...

Maybe you should offer some sort of seminar, like, "USNavy's Proper Belay Techniques for Pros," where you can teach people like Sharma and Ondra how to REALLY belay.

Here's my take on why they're grabbing the rope: because when you are trying a really hard move that you fall on dozens of times, and getting a soft catch that results in a ten foot fall every time you flub the move, you get sick of yarding back up every time. You grab the rope so that you don't fall as far. This would be especially true for Sharma, who probably outweighs his belayer Dalia by 40-50 lbs.

And what are the reasons for NOT grabbing the rope? Because it can injure your shoulder when you take essentially a static fall onto yourself. However, it is possible to grab a rope and fall onto it dynamically, using your bicep as a screamer; just the same way you do when you fall back onto a hold after missing a deadpoint, or when your feet slip and you're in a bomber, sharp finger lock. I think that 5.15 climbers are probably going to know how to do this, and not injure themselves by grabbing the rope as they fall.

As for jeans... no clue. They're probably just invoking the spirit of Ron Kauk.

(This post was edited by camhead on Nov 18, 2012, 7:50 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by camhead () on Nov 18, 2012, 7:50 AM

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