Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [marc801] Question about polished limestone - WTF?: Edit Log




USnavy


Nov 19, 2012, 8:23 PM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2660

Re: [marc801] Question about polished limestone - WTF?
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marc801 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
But, repeatedly, I have found that I just don't seem to have a clue when I get on limestone routes with really polished footholds. It feels like the feet are so slick that any attempt to move my weight around using my feet, as I'd normally do, would just cause my feet to pop. Even just in a stance where I'm using some force of my feet to stay in place, I can feel them buttering off the hold. As a result, it feels like all my weight is on my arms, so the pump clock just ticks down until I fall off.
Have you been climbing in American Fork Canyon recently? I've fallen off of stuff there when I was just standing around trying to sus out the next move.
I almost blew a 5.10b there when I was onsighting 5.11+ at the time. Slippery crap. Their five star routes are two stars when you account for the polish factor. Rifle also has some really polished crap. I hate polished climbing, it simply isint fun. I dont think there is some special technique that makes polished climbing more secure, it is by nature insecure and slippery.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 19, 2012, 8:24 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Nov 19, 2012, 8:24 PM


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