Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [bearbreeder] I'm new, but this setup seems unsafe: Edit Log




csproul


Nov 28, 2012, 9:51 AM

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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [bearbreeder] I'm new, but this setup seems unsafe
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bearbreeder wrote:
camhead wrote:

What I'm saying is that, while this is silly, and is for reasons more of convenience and organization than purely safety, there is nothing inherently wrong or against Trango and Petzl's recommendations in anchoring devices to the floor.

from PETZL ...

Belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground: WARNING, Danger!


This technique is strongly discouraged because it has been the root cause of many ground falls. In fact, if the GRIGRI is positioned at the wrong height for the belayer, he risks involuntarily blocking the cam and preventing it from braking the rope.

In addition, with a GRIGRI anchored to the ground, controlling the descent is more difficult than with the GRIGRI on the belayer because the weight of the climber cannot be felt.


if an accident should happen, id hate to be the gym that went against the manufacturers recommendation ...


Wink


[image]http://www.petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/product-experience/GRIGRI2/assure-au-sol.gif[/image]
That scenario cannot happen if the Grigri is attached to the floor AND the harness, which is what camhead is saying.

I'd definitely not like the Cinch or Grgri ONLY attached to the floor, but I'm fine with attaching it to both the harness and the floor (in fact, our local gym does just this).

I also don't like the idea of clipping in with a single biner of any kind. Too easy to not get it fully clipped or have the gate partially blocked. The local campus gym has been closed for more than 6 months due to an accident in which this was the likely cause (on an auto-belay). In a gym setting, it is too easy for this to happen and I would not rely on the average gym client to ensure that the gate is locked and correct. Two O&O biners go a long way towards alleviating this concern.


(This post was edited by csproul on Nov 28, 2012, 9:56 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by csproul () on Nov 28, 2012, 9:56 AM


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