Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [lena_chita] Incorporating hangboard into training: Edit Log


Dec 3, 2012, 6:11 PM

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Re: [lena_chita] Incorporating hangboard into training
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I follow a somewhat strict training plan that involves fingerboarding, climbing, as well as general fitness stuff. The plan has two versions "in season" which for me is usually every weekend climbing at Rumney and "off season".

I realize I am going to get flamed for over training, but I have followed a very similar schedule for years. My finger-board numbers keep going up. This type of training took me from climbing 5.13b/v8 to a maximum of 5.14b/v11. I haven't seen a huge amount of progress in the last few years, however. I am a normal working guy(with an extremely supporting family). I had a sporting back-ground, but I didn't start climbing until my mid 20's.

In season:

Monday am: weightlifting. mostly power-oriented olympic style lifts(power snatches and power cleans). Some deadlifts, weighted pullups, back extensions, and front lever work. I am not convinced this is helpful, but after years of doing nothing that wasn't directly applicable to climbing I got a little bored.

Monday pm: 8-7-6 fingerboard workout. This is a little hard to describe but here it goes. Start with one grip. Perform 8 reps of hanging 7s and resting 3. Now rest for 90 seconds. Perform 7 reps. Rest 90 seconds. Perform 6 reps. Rest 3 minutes and switch grips. I do 5 total grips. If I am successful with all of the hangs for a certain grip, I add 2 pounds the next session.

Tuesday am: This fall I rested. Although I am thinking of doing some power endurance intervals on my home-wall this spring.

Tuesday pm: Climb at the local climbing gym(Maine rock gym). I don't really see this as super serious climbing. Mostly I try and flash as many problems as I can, and socialize. If the problems are getting stale I sometimes climb in a weight belt.

Wednesday am: fingerboard workout: Similar to Monday except with 5-4-3 reps. Since there are fewer reps there is obviously more weight.

Wednesday pm: Bouldering on my home wall. This wall is 50 degrees overhanging and 8ft x 12ft. I work both 1-3 and 3-5 move boulder problems during this session.

Thursday am: nothing

Thursday pm: Fingerboard. Similar to the others, except 2-1-1 reps. The weight here is a lot heavier than any other session. 1/3 of the time I skip this session. Even though I use the most weight in this session I find that it taxes me least of all.

Friday: Complete rest.

Sat-Sun: Climbing at Rumney. I have climbed there for years so all I have left to climb are long-ish and very long term projects.

The off-season schedule is similar, but I'll add a few sessions. An extra weightlifting day, an extra home-wall session of my choice, another day at the gym, and some cardio if I am feel like the only thing that kept me from sending my project last season was 8 pounds.

You can check out some of my workout logs here if you are interested:
Don't mind the mediocre training blog that it is attached too however.

After climbing my max a few years ago I haven't really had the heart to stay really light. This is important for me to climb 5.14. I find that I can boulder pretty hard without watching what I eat, so thats why it seems like my boulder sends have been better in the last few years. You can look me up on 8a and see the progress if you like: my name is Michael Penn.

(This post was edited by melp2718 on Dec 3, 2012, 6:13 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by melp2718 () on Dec 3, 2012, 6:13 PM

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