Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [jliungman] Video: Testing FF2 with dyneema: Edit Log


Dec 19, 2012, 2:44 AM

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Re: [jliungman] Video: Testing FF2 with dyneema
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jliungman wrote:

I have received video material from some friends and experienced climbing instructors, showing some fairly alarming results concerning the use of knotted dyneema.

I apologize for the fact that commentary is in Swedish. Iīve uploaded two doodles to try and explain whats going on.

The results, in short, show that under heavy but entirely realistic loads (ff 2 with new rope and and test dummy), a new dyneema sling fails completely. This happens when the dyneema is shortened using two techniques which, at least in Scandinavia, are common and taught by instructors.
Any thoughts? To me the results imply that we should avoid knotting dyneema altogether, and use this fantastic material only in full length, stitched slings (like quick draws). At least until we know more about which nylon/dyneema/widths/knots combinations work and which donīt.


this can be summed up:
Don't fall on static stuff.

regarding this:
In reply to:
ff 2 with new rope and and test dummy

I can't think of a situation in which a rope is relevant here... do you mean new sling?

(This post was edited by iknowfear on Dec 19, 2012, 2:45 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by iknowfear () on Dec 19, 2012, 2:45 AM

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