Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [jt512] Video: Testing FF2 with dyneema: Edit Log


Dec 20, 2012, 12:52 AM

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Re: [jt512] Video: Testing FF2 with dyneema
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jt512 wrote:

What you think is "fear" is actually people making intelligent inquiries. And those inquiries are independent of whether they hang off a fully cammed grigri or not without a backup.

What's that called, the incautionary principle: "If anything can go right, it will"?

Assuming everything in climbing is safe until absolutely proved otherwise is pretty stupid, although it is true that you will probably be ok.


no its simply focusing on things that are most likely to go wrong and kill you ... dont assume EVERYTHING is safe ... ANYTHING can kill you, but you cant worry about everything can ya now

the fear about "the deadly dyneema" occupies many intraweb threads ...

how about more basic stuff like wearing a helmet, which of course you ALWAYS do when leading dontcha mistah JAY Wink

what we have is an incomplete test IMO ... people have pointed out the funny anchor setup ... and we DO belay with a device or other such dont we ...

how many dyneema anchor FF2 failures have we had in real life ... i suspect there many be at least one or two since its a very common material ... and in fact i expect that there are at least a few nylon or cordellette failures in history as well ... but compare that to the much more common ways to die ... worry about the things that matter

tying off a proper anchor with dyneema, nylon, cord isnt whats going to kill you tmr (well it might if you are on such sketchy anchors that you cant clip the belay bolt or a piece, but are YOU doing such a climb mistah jay Tongue)

i once remember someone who yakked all about only climbing with partners who knew how to built zpulleys, using only lockers at anchors, unsafe PAS/dyneema ... what did he do? ... rapped off the ends of his rope ...

bottom line ... i want to see more info, a proper anchor setup and a belay device in the system ...

and if you are worried about being "safe" ... dont use a device that aint hands free according to the manufacturer ... well hands free Wink

(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Dec 20, 2012, 1:00 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 20, 2012, 12:52 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 20, 2012, 12:55 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 20, 2012, 12:58 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 20, 2012, 1:00 AM

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