Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [marc801] hardware store quicklinks: Edit Log




bearbreeder


Dec 21, 2012, 1:33 PM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [marc801] hardware store quicklinks
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marc801 wrote:
They weren't quicklinks that were tested - they were hardware store carabiners. Your post title and the sentence fragment above are wildly inaccurate.

In the article referenced, it states:
"Every "hardware" carabiner sucks, to say the least, whether they are new, old, regardless of their shape, type, width and where they were bought in Italy. All, apart from one, open on average at circa 1200 daN (kg)."

Earlier, the article further defines daN:
" I began collecting them after a carabiner which I'd removed from a belay "opened" at 920 daN (a metric unit equivalent to circa 1 kg). "

At 1kg = ~2.2 lbs, these supposed death-trap biners are failing at ~2600 lbs. Obviously totally inadequate for lowering, rapping, or top roping.

Please think before posting breathtaking sensationalism.

read more carefully ;)

With "fixed" gear, the weakest part is always the quickdraw, then the "hardware" maillon rapide and then the carabiner (if it is "CE").
Non "CE" maillon rapides generally hold less that a really worn "CE" carabiner.
CE" maillon rapides, even if worn down to about half their width, break under loads similar to new maillon rapides.


as to the usage ... i see plenty of these things on bolts or routes out here ... likely people leaving them

and i see plenty of people who should know better clip them for belay anchors and on lead ...

people do funny things ..

Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Dec 21, 2012, 1:36 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 21, 2012, 1:36 PM


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