Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [billl7] Rappel accident, 60' fall: Edit Log




billl7


Dec 26, 2012, 8:02 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [billl7] Rappel accident, 60' fall
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Tried the same setup as the original test with 5 mm Blue Water accessor cord (new, EN564). With same results. Decided to try shortening the loop to shorter stretched out lengths with results shown below (orig tests included).



Edit: * Pre-tensioning the french-prusik allowed it to hold the weight.


With the french prusik, length can matter. Cool I suspect the shorter lengths force the coils to stay more closely together and so to run in a more compact coil around the rope. This way, more of the cord can act as two fingers do pinching on directly opposite sides of the rope rather than two fingers on opposite sides of the rope but offset up and down the rope from each other.

With the aforementioned prusik & kleimheist, the hitch itself better governs its own compactness in dimension up and down the rope.

I haven't checked out how easily each different configuration can be tended during the rappel (i.e., ease of being pushed down the rope by hand). Might be pretty difficult, especially with the 13 inch loop of cord and four wraps.

Bill L


(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 26, 2012, 8:39 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Dec 26, 2012, 8:05 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Dec 26, 2012, 8:06 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Dec 26, 2012, 8:20 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Dec 26, 2012, 8:39 PM


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