Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [jcrew] Rappel accident, 60' fall: Edit Log




billl7


Dec 27, 2012, 2:20 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [jcrew] Rappel accident, 60' fall
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jcrew wrote:
o.k. copy that.....but this beta doesn't seem applicable to this situation. IMO, he would have had a lot more control if he'd threaded both ropes. the friction alone would have probably almost stopped him. it seems they were slavish to the technique, not understanding the reasons for the technique.

It seems unlikely that rapping on two strands would have "almost stopped him", especially on so short of a rap. I find double 9's on a standard ATC to be 'fast' ... enough so that I'm usually either planning to use a different rap device or doubling up on the ATC's locker. Edit: Some of my lighter climbing partners think an ATC-rap on double 9's is okay but I generally don't hear them complaining of too much friction.

All that said, double strands may have helped with the autoblock engaging (not sure). And, even before that, perhaps he would have felt less pressed to just trust to the autoblock.

And I agree that the primary issue was losing control in the first place; thanks for re-emphasizing that in this thread. It would be wrong to assume the beta from the autoblock analysis addresses what is the primary issue.

Bill L


(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 27, 2012, 2:27 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Dec 27, 2012, 2:26 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Dec 27, 2012, 2:27 PM


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