Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [USnavy] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log


Dec 28, 2012, 11:35 AM

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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
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Re: [USnavy] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
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The main peak load occurs over 85ms (that is, the width of the peak above the final base load). The most extreme part of the peak load happens in a shorter period. It is interesting to consider this in relation to active dynamic belaying. It is claimed that if the belayer jumps or steps or actively initiates a moves in some way, when a climber falls, he can reduce the peak loading on the climber. It takes an absolute minimum of 200ms for a person to react to some stimulus (such as hearing a yell "falling" or seeing a fall), and generally this time is much longer. Further time is then required for the belayer to flex in some way. To reduce the peak load on the climber, the belayer's jump would then have to be precisely synchronised with the 85ms peak load. To me, this seems almost impossible.

Any "dynamic" effect by the belayer is simply the belayer being lifted off the ground by the impact of the fall. It is virtually impossible for the belayer to actively contribute to any impact reduction.

Many people consider that dynamic belaying is an essential part of good belaying but actions other than allowing some rope slip through the belay device at the moment of impact and an indirect or semi direct belay, seem futile.

(This post was edited by Syd on Dec 28, 2012, 11:41 AM)

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Post edited by Syd () on Dec 28, 2012, 11:41 AM

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