Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [jt512] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log




dan2see


Dec 29, 2012, 8:22 PM

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Registered: Mar 28, 2006
Posts: 1497

Re: [jt512] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
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shotwell wrote:
... Remind me to NEVER let you belay me.

jt512 wrote:
... Shut up and learn how to belay already.

Oh yeah? Well your mother wears army pants! Tongue
Both of you! Tongue

The thing is, it's fun to be more right than the other guy. But it's another thing entirely to figure out how things work, and what you should do about it.

For myself, the only "rule" for my belayer is "Never let go of the break brake strand".

Petzl (I think) once had a page of advice, related to lead techniques. In the paragraph about anchors, their advice was "... Clip your sling to the anchor, sit in your harness, and ..."

So you guys, you don't have to be more scientific, or more experienced, than the OP. But it's silly to argue about how to belay.

---o---o---

Some time ago, I asked a couple of friends about that short phrase "sit in your harness", but nobody had noticed it. One guy said "Well that's what I always do" and another said "Huh? What?" but nobody had a reason.

Although plenty of folks I climb with today know that a short fall off your anchor produces a high fall-factor that can injure you. These same guys will get very nervous if anybody climbs above the top anchor.

(Edit ...)
Oops not "today"! Everybody I know is skiing, or climbing ice today. Well I never learned to ski, and I'm staying off the ice-climbs for this winter.
But I'm still messing around on snow and rock and scree and other silliness.


(This post was edited by dan2see on Dec 29, 2012, 9:36 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by dan2see () on Dec 29, 2012, 8:32 PM
Post edited by dan2see () on Dec 29, 2012, 8:33 PM
Post edited by dan2see () on Dec 29, 2012, 9:36 PM


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