Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [JimTitt] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log




dan2see


Dec 30, 2012, 4:38 AM

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Registered: Mar 28, 2006
Posts: 1497

Re: [JimTitt] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
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JimTitt wrote:
... Mostly I donīt bother since the bottom of the cliffs where I mostly climb are an upward slope which makes things awkward and anyway Iīd probably spill my coffee by moving fast...

I'd say that matches the scene where I climb. Don't forget the rubble and talus I'm standing on, too.

But the hard part is, I don't have a load cell. If I did, we could set-up a "quick and dirty" point at the top anchor and record from there. Although I don't know anybody who would volunteer to leave his laptop perched up there, on a ledge (if there is a ledge). And then jump off, for a ff1 fall! With a belayer who'd jump, just before the faller hits the ground? They'd both be crazy!

I agree with JimTitt that a "jump" is not practical and not even practicable (hey! there's a good word!). So I obey my own rule: "Never let go of the brake strand."

And once again, I make the effort to remind everyone here, that the OP's set-up measures a "static anchor", and not a "dynamic belay"! Tongue !! Tongue !!!


(This post was edited by dan2see on Dec 30, 2012, 5:14 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by dan2see () on Dec 30, 2012, 5:10 AM
Post edited by dan2see () on Dec 30, 2012, 5:14 AM


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