Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [dan2see] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log




csproul


Dec 30, 2012, 4:19 PM

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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [dan2see] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
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dan2see wrote:
csproul wrote:
dan2see wrote:
patto wrote:
...
Certainly amongst MY local TRAD community dynamic belays are never emphasised.

And amongst my local sport community, I've never seen anyone do a dynamic belay.
Either you don't have a very sporty "local sport community" or you are not paying attention. Observe sport climbers at any major sport area..think the Red, the New, Obed, Rifle, Rumney (sorry, US-centric I know, but those are the areas that I am familiar with)...and you will observe prolific dynamic belaying in practice. Even here in NC, with very few bolts, I see it all the time.

THe point is much less about minimizing peak load than it is about reducing the slam into the wall produced by the pendulum effect. IT's not that hard. You don't have to really "jump" unless you really outweigh your climber. GIve into the pull of the fall and allow yourself to be pulled up. I routinely end up hanging 10 or more ft up when my climber falls.

Unless, of course, there is something to hit below the climber..then that take precedence. Keep the climber from hitting dangerous things 1st, soften the catch 2nd. IF I'm slab climbing, usually with big runnouts, then shortening the fall gets bumped up in priority.

No! You are not paying attention!

1. The OP is about measuring a static anchor, not the technique of dynamic belay.

2. I don't live near any of those places. I live near the Canadian Rockies. You know, up there in the great white frozen wasteland?

Anyway it's Sunday now and I'm loading my gear into the car. In a couple of hours I'll be snow-shoeing and scrambling a ridge on Mount Baldy. Tame enough, but it provides plenty of adventure. The rocks aren't too high, but all the features are covered with snow. It's sheltered by forest, so the venue is very pleasant. I'll try to get some snapshots of the static anchors I set up.
I wasn't addressing the OP, genius, I was addressing you. If you can read the highlighted and underlined sentence above, YOU are talking about a dynamic belay and how you've "never seen anyone do a dynamic belay in your local sport climbing community". And my original statement stands. Either you are not paying attention to your local sport climbing community or you don't have one. Dynamic belays are commonplace at every sport climbing crag I've ever seen and they are effective. Period.


(This post was edited by csproul on Dec 30, 2012, 5:09 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by csproul () on Dec 30, 2012, 5:09 PM


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