Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [JimTitt] Cinch Issues?: Edit Log


Dec 31, 2012, 4:18 AM

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Re: [JimTitt] Cinch Issues?
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There is absolutely nothing whatsoever special about my hand strength. If anything I'd guess I'm on the light side of the bell curve. In fact, there's nothing exceptional at all around what I'm saying. What I can do, however, and do fast and reliably by instinct, is brake a fall over my hip / thigh such that my hand ends up 180 degrees around behind the top of my thigh.

My main point is braking falls over the hip / thigh in that manner is essentially no longer done or practiced which I consider quite unfortunate in a world of 'almost always' autoblocking devices. If you delegate the braking function to an autoblocking device 100% of the time and the device can't reliably autoblock 100% of the time (for whatever reason) then it's hard to escape the conclusion you're gambling.

Let's put it this way, how often do you take your brake hand off the rope when a partner is resting on your grigri? Hopefully never, because your hand is backing up the blocked device. Not braking falls over your hip / thigh means during the fall there is no backup to the device catching the fall - it either works or it doesn't and if it doesn't someone's going for a ride.

Personally, being old, I just don't trust any device that much.

(This post was edited by healyje on Dec 31, 2012, 4:20 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Dec 31, 2012, 4:18 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Dec 31, 2012, 4:19 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Dec 31, 2012, 4:20 AM

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