Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log




redlude97


Jan 4, 2013, 1:15 AM

Views: 2106

Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

patto wrote:
Those graphs show quite clearly that the difference between dynamic and a simple belay is negligible.

Also all the comment regarding sport climbing and stopping the pendulum effect miss the point. A dynamic belay is not the best solution to avoiding a pendulum! The best solution is allowing more slack!
An 18% reduction in peak is negligible?

In regards to swinging into the wall. It isn't about peak force but rather horizontal velocity that matters. A pretty good discussion from a while back shows the merits of a dynamic belay(as well as initial slack).
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
"Theory" shows ~40-60% reduction in horizontal energy


(This post was edited by redlude97 on Jan 4, 2013, 1:53 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by redlude97 () on Jan 4, 2013, 1:51 AM
Post edited by redlude97 () on Jan 4, 2013, 1:53 AM: Combined posts for clarification


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?