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Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? :
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redlude97
Jan 4, 2013, 1:15 AM
Views: 500
Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 969
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patto wrote: Those graphs show quite clearly that the difference between dynamic and a simple belay is negligible. Also all the comment regarding sport climbing and stopping the pendulum effect miss the point. A dynamic belay is not the best solution to avoiding a pendulum! The best solution is allowing more slack!
In regards to swinging into the wall. It isn't about peak force but rather horizontal velocity that matters. A pretty good discussion from a while back shows the merits of a dynamic belay(as well as initial slack).
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
"Theory" shows ~40-60% reduction in horizontal energy
(This post was edited by redlude97 on Jan 4, 2013, 1:53 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by redlude97
() on Jan 4, 2013, 1:51 AM
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Post edited by redlude97
() on Jan 4, 2013, 1:53 AM: Combined posts for clarification
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