Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log




csproul


Jan 4, 2013, 7:46 AM

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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1767

Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
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So a foot of dynamic jumping is so much better than a foot of slack in reducing the pendulum! Crazy Laugh

I'm not faulting dynamic belays, I'm just saying that they have massively overstated benefits. If you want a softer catch then buy a BEAL rope!

It is far better to use a stretchy rope to absorb energy and reduce a pendulum than doing a little jump.

If you introduce slack, the fall distance will be greater, the impact force will be greater, but the pendulum effect will be reduced. A well done dynamic belay will have all of the pluses (reduced pendulum effect) and still reduce impact force. And it is not that hard, it get's done all the time. Being a lighter climber, I can definitely feel when my belayer is soft or not.

The other thing that you're missing that putting slack in the rope gives you no option but to increase the fall distance. If you do not (arbitrarily) introduce slack you can adjust your belay to the situation. If you need to shorten the fall because of a ledge, you do not give the dynamic belay. If you had slack in the system, this is not an option. If there is nothing to hit, you can belay dynamically with all of the benefits as if you had put slack in the system, without having to yard rope in an out to adjust for every changing situation.

If you only get pulled up a foot in your dynamic belay...you are definitely doing it wrong. I routinely allow myself to be pulled up a good 10 ft. So you'd rather I just leave 10 ft of slack in the rope? Let's say my climber has 10 ft of slack in the line and decides s/he quickly wants to step down and hang...if I were prepared for any type of belay, be it dynamic or otherwise (eg no slack!), all I'd have to do is essentially sit down and take. With your 10 ft of slack out I'd have to take all that rope in and then take their weight. No thanks.


(This post was edited by csproul on Jan 4, 2013, 9:22 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by csproul () on Jan 4, 2013, 9:22 AM


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