Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log


Jan 4, 2013, 4:20 PM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
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Re: [patto] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
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patto wrote:

Sigh. Unsure

Since my comments are being frequently misrepresented and twisted into something that is entirely different from what I have said I see no use in debating.

your comments were quite clear ... despite clean evidence by multiple reputable manufactures, authors and sites

in addition multiple posters who climb sport have told you that dynamic belaying is effective for preventing your climber from slamming into the wall ... yet you insist on going off about who knows what about how it ...

heres another one from "how to climb HARD TRAD" by britains best trad climber , dave macleod

If there is enough height to manage it, get the belayer to give you a dynamic belay.
This basically means the belayer slows the rate at which the rope comes tight,
spreading the load out over time and lowering the peak forces on the gear. This is
really effective both for preventing gear failing but also for lessening violent swings
into the crag, which do cause some really bad injuries, even on apparently safe
There are a few techniques for dynamic belaying. The most obvious one is
to let the rope run through the belay plate, gradually closing grip until the rope stops.
In practice this is very difficult to do, so is best avoided for short routes. If you must
use it, practice on some long sport routes first. The second is to belay slightly away
from the crag and ‘run with’ the rope as it comes tight for a few steps. This might be
a bad idea if the gear includes poor wires, where standing as close to the wall as
possible is best. In this case, jump upwards with the rope as it comes tight, or use a
bombproof runner close to the ground to redirect the rope.

but then i suppose you know better than him Tongue

as to "misconstrued" ... your the pot trying to call the kettle black

its quite obvious from this and other threads that some RCers dont understand, care or practice dynamic belays ... this is a serious hazard should you ever need to catch vertical to overhanging "clean" falls ... having your ankle or other extremity busted from slamming into the wall or other such that could be prevented with a dynamic belay is a VERY COMMON injury ....

and people say intraweb forums is a "good" place to learn basic safety advice


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 4, 2013, 4:24 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jan 4, 2013, 4:23 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jan 4, 2013, 4:24 PM

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