Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [jt512] Cinch Issues?: Edit Log


Jan 4, 2013, 11:53 PM

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Re: [jt512] Cinch Issues?
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jt512 wrote:
markcarlson wrote:
I saw it happen beside me at a crag in 2011.

Me too. Same year, in fact. What should have been at most a 20-foot fall, ended up being about 60 feet with rope slipping through the device, and the climber came to a stop not more than 3 feet off the deck.

I have never trusted the Cinch on account of these occasional inexplicable and unreproducible incidents.

Me too, and yet the same year again - 2011. I was linking two pitches at Smith rocks where what should have been a 15' fall turned into me flying past 8 bolts before I stopped. Needless to say I stopped climbing with my belayer that very moment. I left the draws up and walked back to the car.

However, the reason why I was dropped was because my belayer was holding the cam open as I fell instead of holding the rope as she should have been doing. Regardless of what device you use, if you are not actually holding the rope, dont expect much to happen.

billcoe_ wrote:
repost from couple years back:

Love the Cinch for belaying. However, like all mechanical things, they wear. My friend Stan Miller, who probably uses his Cinch as much or more than anyone on this board, has shared his method of replacing the Dowel Pin that is the main wear point. Allowing the Dowel pin to get too low will allow faster wear on the body. As Stan is not just a better climber, but much smarter than me, his replacement went much better. So I'll share Stans routine on this.

I figured I'd just grab our little press at work and use the new dowel pin to replace the old without doing anything to the existing jig. This is called laziness. My son had jigged up some PDFE for a job, which I took about 3 seconds to blow out. Dohh. Furthermore, as it wasn't straight, I actually blew a few thousands of the edge of the Cinch where the rope will be

Tore the jig out and hammered the wood in half with a hammer and a screwdriver, then used the PDFE to support the Cinch.
Out with the old and in with the new.

Cheapo press.
5/16 x 3/4 Dowel pin
Wear reading glasses, not safety glasses so you can see what you are doing.

I have extra dowel pins if you want to try this yourself, ask me for one if you see me out and about. You can easily get a 5/16" x 3/4" long dowel pin at any hardware store as well.

Back on track. What I haven't been able to correlate is what kind of grip/strength reduction is achieved in the Cinch at what level of wear. Certainly there is some, in fact, mine would not grip well rappelling a single rope if it was a thinner one (and had a slick dry coating applied too). So I could see a worn dowel pin and a brand new thin dry coated rope being a bad combo to hold a whipper. You would most certainly get the rope running through the device and zipping through your hands, and if you were not wearing gloves, it would be very painful, I don't care what your skill level of belaying was.

Give us the full Paul Harvey and let us know: "the rest of the story, Good day".
You could spend all day doing that. Or you could just send it to Trango and get a new one. The second and third generation pins are made out of forged steel as opposed to rolled steel in the first gen models.

(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 4, 2013, 11:54 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Jan 4, 2013, 11:53 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Jan 4, 2013, 11:54 PM

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