Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [csproul] Cinch Issues?: Edit Log


Jan 5, 2013, 12:09 AM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Re: [csproul] Cinch Issues?
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My version of hip belay is done with the rope from the leader going through a single non-locking biner on the harness and then the rope travels back around my hips. The rope path rides below the top point of your hip bones by about an inch and a half. In the case of a fall, your brake hand basically plunges to your upper inner thigh (butt of palm first, palm turned out). With that setup, holding a lead fall is plenty solid due to the friction of both hips.

In the scenario we're discussing the bends through the autoblocking device substitutes for some, but not all, of one hip's worth of friction. But in this case you don't brake around your hip because it's not tight enough a radious. Instead, you brake across the top of your upper thigh just below your butt cheek. You pick up about 160-170 degrees of wrap over the tighter radius around your thigh.

In a fall, rather than plunging your hand below your crotch in front as you do with a hip belay, you do close to the same, only behind you, while at the same time rotating your body ninety degrees or so towards the side of your brake hand and leaning back and bracing hard against the foot now pointing at the leader.

All of those features of the belay have to happen at the same time - the braking behind the thigh, the turn to the brake hand side, and the lean back and bracing against the now front foot. Also, if, how, and where you flake the rope can make it harder or easier to execute it as well; I tend to flake the rope out well to my brake hand side and slightly behind me.

(This post was edited by healyje on Jan 5, 2013, 12:15 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 5, 2013, 12:15 AM

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