Jan 9, 2013, 1:58 PM
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
I'm a sandstone guy, but I've lived in the PNW climbing columnar basalt since '87 and am well familiar with the protection in it at places like Vantage. In my opinion there is lots of confusion here between competence, quality of placements, and the type of rock.
In this case at Frog Buttress and in Göran Kropp's case at Vantage, I very much question their level of competence for the task at hand in the rock type they were climbing.
Yeah, there are rock types where you have to be careful with your placements and preferably double-up and consider the slinging, but bottom line, when you rip or zipper a line of pro you alone, and your skill and judgment, are the root cause of the accident - not the rock.
(This post was edited by healyje on Jan 9, 2013, 2:00 PM)