Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [redlude97] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading? : Edit Log


Jan 9, 2013, 6:14 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
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Re: [redlude97] Quick and dirty test: What happens during shockloading?
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redlude97 wrote:
Sure you haven't directly stated what you do, but what are we supposed to believe when you make statements like this.

You should read and comprehend what the statements DO say and not to jump to conclusions about what they DO NOT say.

rgold wrote:

Like usual I feel compelled to agree with Rgold...

rgold wrote:
I see sport climbers leave substantial loops of slack in the belay a lot.

I never see trad climbers doing that.

I've observed this about many gym climbers too. Though I have no reason or desire to fault their belay as it seems to regularly achieve the desirable outcome.

When it comes to trad though, in my experience, the best way for a belayer to reduce the risk of injury to the climber is USUALLY to minimise the fall distance. This normally involve minimal slack, no jumping and standing beneath the first piece. Of course where a pendulum injury is possible or the pro is exceptionally weak then other approaches may be preferable.

For the last big trad fall I caught there was 30m of rope in the system. The leader fell ~7m came within 0.5m of a sloped face beneath her. I would expect that she was glad of a tight belay with minimal slack or jumping. Wink

Of course a belay should be situationally dependent.

(This post was edited by patto on Jan 9, 2013, 6:50 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Jan 9, 2013, 6:50 PM

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