Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [JimTitt] Cinch Issues?: Edit Log


Jan 10, 2013, 6:46 AM

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Registered: Apr 26, 2007
Posts: 373

Re: [JimTitt] Cinch Issues?
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I'm a bit late for this thread, but let me add my experiences. I've used the Cinch about 4 years. During that time, I have never myself had any issues, but my belayer once dropped my quite the way, almost decking me. I'm pretty sure what happened.

I was projecting a route and was resting, with my waist at the bolt. I decided to a big reach for a hold I though I barely could reach, just to see how it felt. I expected the belayer to keep me tight, but as I stretched he assumed I was continuing my climb and gave out some slack . At the same time I leaned back to continue resting, and next thing I knew I was 15 feet down.

I think it is pretty obvious that this is the big risk with the Cinch. If you take a mild fall at the same time the belayer is paying out slack, a lot of rope will run through the device before it locks up. The way to avoid this is to grab the rope with your three free fingers so that you create the drag required for it to lock up more quickly. This can be hard if your belayer is inexperienced (the case in my fall) or inattentive.

While I am totally of the opinion that this is an avoidable belayer error, the Cinch surely leaves much less room for sloppiness than for example the Grigri. And as everyone (except Healyje) knows, everyone will be sloppy at one point or two. Even John Long was.

I have adjusted my belaying style so that I keep the Cinch locked up as much as possible. I do this by pulling up on the guide hand, which locks the device. My braking hand remains solely on the braking side of the rope - I do not hold the device at all. Only when slack is needed in the next second, do I move my brake hand onto the device. I then super quickly (and this is easy with the Cinch) pay out an arm (being attentive that I have 3 fingers firmly on the braking side of the rope), and immediately after return both my hands to the locking position.

Like many others, my Cinch is getting worn, so I will probably do like everybody else and get a grigri 2.

(This post was edited by JAB on Jan 10, 2013, 6:47 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by JAB () on Jan 10, 2013, 6:47 AM

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