Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [DouglasHunter] 200 pullups a day: Edit Log




colatownkid


Jan 14, 2013, 4:40 AM

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Registered: Nov 27, 2007
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Re: [DouglasHunter] 200 pullups a day
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DouglasHunter wrote:
nick97 wrote:
My lockoffs are pretty weak so pullups i think would help with that

Folks like myself and Eva Lopez have looked for lock-offs in climbing and determined that they are not as common as people think. It's conventional wisdom that something called "lock-off strength" is necessary in climbing but when doing video analysis it doesn't really show up. It's highly unlikely that lacking lock-off strength is a weakness that you need to address.

See here:

http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/2012/08/second-post-inspired-by-the-mccoll-training-video/

and see here:

http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2012/09/lock-off-training-iii-do-you-really.html

Douglas,

Does your video analysis include trad climbing as well? The two places where I feel my lock-off strength tends to be a limiting factor are select boulder problems and more frequently while trad climbing (ie. placing gear in an awkward or locked off position). Does your analysis account for this? Perhaps I need to adjust my gear placing strategies?

Edited for clarity, grammar.


(This post was edited by colatownkid on Jan 14, 2013, 8:43 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by colatownkid () on Jan 14, 2013, 8:43 AM


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