Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [skellie] Frequency of Pinches on Routes: Edit Log


Jan 17, 2013, 5:45 PM

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Registered: Jul 2, 2009
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Re: [skellie] Frequency of Pinches on Routes
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The thing i've noticed is once you get to the V5 or V6 and up grade, you start to see pinches a lot more. Even when it's subtle, using a thumb "catch" ends up becoming more and more essential in the problem's beta. I can't speak for routes because i haven't visited as many crags as bouldering areas, but it seems to be the same with sport climbing, and even moreso with sandstone.
So while pinches aren't an issue for you now, and are probably over emphasized in the gym, as the grades get higher trying to turn a pinch into a sidepull will get you booted off of many a boulder, especially if you want to climb anything past 25 degrees or so.

And another thing-- once yr pinch strength is on par with yr other strengths, you get the added bonus of doing stuff like pinching crimps and small slopers which transforms flat sidepulls and angled cobbles on routes into bomber rests to clip or chalk or shake.

Like drop knee or toe hook, using your thumbs to pinch is a weapon you'll be very very glad to learn sooner than later.

(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jan 18, 2013, 8:50 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by sp00ki () on Jan 17, 2013, 5:46 PM
Post edited by sp00ki () on Jan 17, 2013, 5:47 PM
Post edited by sp00ki () on Jan 18, 2013, 8:50 AM

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