Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [DrPat] Your thoughts on these wooden holds I made: Edit Log




sp00ki


Jan 18, 2013, 12:02 PM

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Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552

Re: [DrPat] Your thoughts on these wooden holds I made
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I'd like to see some crimps. Most people with home walls build them for training and subsequently don't need jugs as deep as the ones you've built. I have a 27 degree wall, and have maybe three jugs on my wall. They are all small, and are either underclings or sidepulls. All the rest of them are in a box... jugs really don't serve much purpose on a training wall.

My thoughts: Jugs targeted at the home wall should be more like slightly incut ample ledges: Good enough to warm up or rest on, but not a 5.3 gym jug.

As for holds that i think would benefit from being made of wood:
Small incut crimpy ledges, simple crimps, small "button" feet.
The trouble with wooden slopers is, as oils or sweat and chalk build up in sanded wood, the friction will go from bad to terrible. Washing the holds will be a problem (swelling), and the result will be an unusable hold.
Focusing on incut rounded crimps, ledges, flat rest ledges, slots, etc. would probably be the sort of thing that will end up working best when made of wood in my opinion.


PS-- i'm sure you've researched, but these guys have some cool cnc carved holds. i'm assuming you're doing the same?
http://www.woodenholds.com/
I like what they did with the slopers-- cut groves into them to avoid the situation i described above.

also, there are a few other companies out there if you want ideas about pricing:
http://woodpeckerholds.com/en/
http://magicwoodclimbingholds.blogspot.com/...lds-and-pricing.html


(This post was edited by sp00ki on Jan 18, 2013, 1:15 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sp00ki () on Jan 18, 2013, 12:04 PM
Post edited by sp00ki () on Jan 18, 2013, 12:05 PM
Post edited by sp00ki () on Jan 18, 2013, 12:13 PM
Post edited by sp00ki () on Jan 18, 2013, 12:14 PM
Post edited by sp00ki () on Jan 18, 2013, 1:15 PM


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