Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [camhead] At what grade should one free solo?: Edit Log


Jan 21, 2013, 7:51 PM

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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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Re: [camhead] At what grade should one free solo?
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camhead wrote:
marc801 wrote:

camhead wrote:
Derek Hersey maxed out 5.12a or so, he would free solo up to solid 5.11.

And was killed soloing a 5.9.

Yup. It is interesting that the three climbers I mentioned who soloed the nearest to their limits are also the three on the list who are not with us anymore. Despite the fact that none of them died while soloing at their limit.


I don't know that the two are related. Could be I suppose.

Hersey and Bachar both fell from routes of a relatively moderate grade, given their abilities. Perhaps for reasons similar to why experience climbers seem to be injured or killed more often from unfinished knots or botched rappels and the like. Complacency. Comfort. Hubris. What ever you want to call it.

When you're near your limit, you're focused. When you're cruising, you're relaxed, you make mistakes.

Or maybe it's just a coincidence. Maybe it's pure statistics. They climbed more of that grade than they did near their limit, so the odds were in favor of a fall from that grade.

The closest I have come to falling was on a .7 I had climbed 20+ times before and have done since. I was cruising and my foot slipped. I've onsighted up to .9 and climbed up to .10c with rehearsal. Does that mean anything? It may. I honestly was being complacent on the .7 and don't feel it would have happened if the climbing had been harder. Or maybe thats just what I tell myself to continue believing I'm in control while ropeless...

(This post was edited by notapplicable on Jan 21, 2013, 7:54 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by notapplicable () on Jan 21, 2013, 7:54 PM

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