Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [sandstone] Ice climbing and reasonable risk levels: Edit Log

Partner cracklover

Jan 28, 2013, 3:30 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Re: [sandstone] Ice climbing and reasonable risk levels
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sandstone wrote:
BTW, learning all of this is great fun, done in some incredibly beautiful settings.

The issue you are either ignorant of, or are sweeping under the rug is that those settings also have a much higher level of objective danger than rock climbing. In fact, this thread rather gives the impression that a few of the posters don't even know what objective versus subjective risk means.

If you want statistics, the Canadian version of the American Alpine Club (can anyone here help me with the real name) keeps excellent statistics of accidents*.

If you want personal anecdotes, yeah, I too have far fewer friends who climb ice than rock, or if they do climb ice, they climb much less of it than rock. And many more friends who have bitten the bullet via ice than rock.

Which is not to say that ice climbing is suicide. Of course it isn't. But it is a significantly higher risk.

Look at it this way. Sure, rock falls off cliffs. I mean hell, we all have to climb a boulder-field of former-cliff every time we go climbing. But it happens over geologic time periods. Ice, on the other hand - it all falls off. Sometimes more than once over the course of a single season. And then there is avalanche risk.

No, it's nowhere near as dangerous as high altitude mountaineering, but yes - IMO, more than rock climbing.


* The Canadian version is very thorough, do not confuse it with the AAC's statistical stuff in their publication Accidents in North American Mountaineering - which is useless IMO.

(edited to add footnote)

(This post was edited by cracklover on Jan 28, 2013, 3:34 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by cracklover () on Jan 28, 2013, 3:33 PM
Post edited by cracklover () on Jan 28, 2013, 3:34 PM

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