Jan 29, 2013, 12:57 PM
Registered: Sep 9, 2001
I climbed at Indian Creek quite a bit in the summer, when I was living nearby. It is definitely an acquired taste, and is really hard to stay motivated. Although dry desert heat is usually better than humid heat, I can honestly say that, when you factor in approaches, it is way easier to climb in the Deep South during summer than it is to climb at the Creek.
The obvious points are, chase shade and take way more water and electrolytes than you think you'll need (1.5 gallons of water, and gatorade powder to mix it with). Very few (if any) crags at the Creek get all-day shade, so you'll usually have to go one place in the morning, and one place in the afternoon. No matter how you cut it, you'll probably wind up doing a hard approach in direct, 100+ degree sunlight, with very heavy packs full of water and gear.
What we would usually do would be a two-day trip: find an area with afternoon shade, hike slowly up to it around 1-2pm. Climb until 9 or 10 at night. Come down, and camp in a miserable night of gnats, dehydrated twitching, and heat. Get up at 5am, do a dawn approach to a morning shade spot, and climb until about noon. After that, we would usually give up and go swim in the Colorado or something.
So, obviously, I can say that I definitely would NOT make a special out-of-my-way trip to climb there in August.
There are many other areas that have enjoyable summer crack cragging (although not as pure, concentrated, or abundant as the Creek). Vedauwoo, Tahoe area, the Eastside of the Sierras, Index, and Squamish would all be awesome in August. Even Yosemite, City of Rocks, or Paradise Forks, AZ would be nicer than the Creek.
(This post was edited by camhead on Jan 29, 2013, 1:20 PM)