Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [abazaba288] Escaping From a Semi Hanging/Hanging Belay: Edit Log


Feb 2, 2013, 6:44 AM

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Registered: Jun 29, 2010
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Re: [abazaba288] Escaping From a Semi Hanging/Hanging Belay
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abazaba288 wrote:
The best way out of this I can think of is to always have one (bomber) piece of gear placed at your feet for this particular situation. Which is probably a lot to ask of most parties not expecting to deal with such problems. Other wise, it looks pretty bad either way you slice it. Haha. Lovely.

Having a bomber pro set low to counter an upward pull isn't that much to ask and is the standard belay anchor configuration for many people, not as a "just in case the belayer needs to escape the belay" but to guard against the belayer being yanked up by a big fall.

Of course, it also provides the 1st pro of an upward pull multipro anchor in case you need to build one to escape the belay and ascend to your leader. Hopefully, you have enough variety in (or correspondence between) your downward pros and your available upward pro placement options to effect the switch between one anchor and the next with the gear that's available in front of you. Be sure to leave one or two of the downward pros in place, as part of the new upward anchor.

No extra pros should be needed but an extra sling or two and a locker (in addition to your long, short and PMMO prusik loops and locker) will definitely come in handy to effect both the anchor switch and the belay escape. In my book, these should be part of a self-rescue-ready belayer's rack.

(edited for clarity)

(This post was edited by jktinst on Feb 2, 2013, 9:23 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jktinst () on Feb 2, 2013, 7:04 AM
Post edited by jktinst () on Feb 2, 2013, 9:23 AM

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