Feb 5, 2013, 4:19 PM
Registered: Jan 3, 2006
I think it's a bit unfair to compare your gain at the end of each dedicated training phase to a program that incorporates those elements in a regular climbing schedule. A better gauge would be to compare the gains between cycles.
Last year, I went through some periodized training as well as some specific phases (for what I thought I was lacking at the moment, be it PE, strength, power). While the gain for each phase was impressive, it came at the expense of others (I could never achieve my max finger strength, power and endurance all at once, as evident on the routes I was projecting). At the end of the year, while I did become a stronger climber overall, it was by nowhere the amount I thought I'd achieve based on gains in individual phases (1-2 letter grades, on par or slightly better than the year before when I mostly climbed).
For me, the jury is still out on which is more effective in the long term. Although I do agree the specific workouts shouldn't be done as an after thought to general climbing (i.e. do them while you are fresh).
(This post was edited by wmfork on Feb 5, 2013, 4:26 PM)