Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [TheOnlyJaces] Stuck at V6/V7 : Edit Log


Feb 5, 2013, 9:49 PM

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Registered: Dec 10, 2005
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Re: [TheOnlyJaces] Stuck at V6/V7
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my opinion... everyone says rest, but the real secret is more!

i know that this post goes against the grain, but hear me out. like you, i've been climbing an average v5-v6 for the past 15 years (school, residency, job, family, kids... all keeps you from making any progress on your climbing) and was finally looking for some way to get out of the rut. so i asked a few strong (v13+) climbers that i know and the bottom line was "you wanna climb stronger? you climb more!" so far have followed this "climb more" mentality for the last two months, and have finally broken into v8... we'll see how long i last.

the two friends of mine are v12-13 route setters and i ask them how they got that strong and here were the responses:

1st friend = i don't really train, because i am already climbing almost 40 hours a week with setting, and then climbing outside every weekend. (you hear that? he and his other climbing friends climb 40+ hours a week!!! and they don't get injured, and they are all impressively strong)

2nd friend = he was surprised that i didn't climb at least climb 2-3 consecutive days and was expecting to get stronger. he said that i needed to start climbing 2 consecutive days (then rest day, then repeat) and make sure that the 2nd day you really push yourself hard and not just socialize at the gym. he said that you'll feel like shit for a month but then start to feel good again... once you start feeling okay with this regimen, increase it to 3 consecutive days climbing hard on all 3 days, then rest a day, and back to 3 consecutive days. he was actually shocked that this was news to me and said that all of the respectably strong climbers do at least this. (he also said that hangboarding with two arms was a waste of time... he wondered how i could get any better without doing one arm hangs... he obviously doesn't realize how hard one arm hangs are on edges for the rest of us mortals)

now i see that you are already climbing 5 days a week for 2-3 hours per day, which is a good volume... my thought would be to add campusing and hangboarding to your workouts. adam ondra says that he climbs about 5-6 days a week and in addition campuses in the mornings 2-3 times a week. and i know that he is a mutant, but check out the website of "robot climbing" which is a blog of a more regular person, with regular genes who is just brutally dedicated to training... and also climbs 5.14 and v11... well done my fellow mortal! i mention his training blog because like the adma ondra training schedule, he also climbs about 6 days a week with several morning campus/hangboard sessions as well.

here is the link:

now everyone shouts warnings about injuries with this type of volume... here is how to prevent an injury... it's not the volume of climbing you are doing, it is spending too long on one specific route or problem. because if you are projecting something, it usually comes down to 2-3 moves that you're stuck on, so you do those moves over and over and over again for hours... this is how you get an injury. the same type of stress on the same part of the same joint repeatedly... i.e. a certain tweaky sidepull or gaston that keeps stressing the same middle finger at the same joint (the PIP) with the same lateral stress... next thing you know, you have a collateral ligament injury... and here's the dirty secret about ligament tears, they take about 9 months to fully heal.

so my solution to injury prevention? give yourself a finite amount of time on any specific problem/route... i used to say 3 tries, i kept breaking it, so now it's more like 5 tries. the goal isn't to climb your first v8, it's to go beyond that.

ask a 5.14 or v12 climber about their training... usually they climb almost every day and usually either have massively long sessions each day, or do several days of 2 workouts (morning and evening)


(This post was edited by cuttysark on Feb 5, 2013, 9:54 PM)

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Post edited by cuttysark () on Feb 5, 2013, 9:54 PM

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