I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy.
I think there's probably a lifetime of routes out there leading at 5.9.
Very true. I meant to say that when you can lead in the .10 range you'll be able to show up to nearly any crag
/ climbing area and find plenty of routes to climb within your ability.
I don't think it is true at all. While a large multi-crag sport climbing area will definitely have some walls in that range, there are also plenty of crags that don't have anything at all below 5.11, 5.12, or even 5.13.
You are more likely to find plenty of routes in 5.10 and below range if you are talking about gear routes. But usually newer climbers coming out of gyms will be thinking of sport climbing, not trad.
It varies with location, of course, but in a place like New River Gorge, I can think of maybe 8-9 walls/crags that will have "plenty" (as in, a day's or weekend's worth) of sport
climbs in 5.10 and below range.
I think that may depend on how narrowly you define "crag". If you consider Waimea at Rumney -- no there's almost nothing for a 5.10 sport leader. But if you consider Rumney as a whole -- yup, there's lots of climbing for the 5.10 sport leader. [/qupte]
True. I tend to think Rumney = area, Waimea or Hinterlands, or Jimmy Cliff =crags/walls at Rumney.
Rumney is more compact than the New. It is hard for anyone to think of Endless Wall and Summersville lake and meadow River as the SAME crag.
But, I also agree that there tends to be a lot more trad in the under 5.10 range.
(This post was edited by lena_chita on Feb 21, 2013, 10:51 AM)