Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Re: [Sanguma] Bolt Anchors on the Rib???: Edit Log


Feb 24, 2013, 6:07 AM

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Registered: May 12, 2011
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Re: [Sanguma] Bolt Anchors on the Rib???
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End of 1st pitch definitely did not need bolts.

It's a popular route so I can understand bolting the end in order to save the trees, sort of like how Triumvirate is bolted. But I remember the rap tree being thick and sturdy.

I wonder if it was done by a local guide. There is one in particular I am thinking of.

Nearly all of the Gap's trad routes should remain unbolted given the amount of trees at the top off the cliffs. I am not against bolting the end of route (if it is necessary in order to descend safely) but that really only applies to heavy traffic routes where trees can become damaged, or it's a situation where you have to stop climbing before you can reach a tree to rap or top out to descend another way.

Crackpot, on the Minsi side, has a few bolts to protect the climb as well as a bolted anchor, but there are unbolted sections that take gear. Something like this (mixed trad and bolts) is understandable, but still questionable...I can't say that I don't like the bolts.

But bolting the 1st rap station on The Rib isn't right. There's PLENTY of gear placements on that ledge.

Like I said, I think it was bolted by a guide in order to make it a speedier and easier climb, as well as give a nervous client (and the leader) the opportunity to safely rap at the end of the 1st pitch.

What other routes now have bolts?

(This post was edited by njrox on Feb 24, 2013, 7:52 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by njrox () on Feb 24, 2013, 7:52 AM

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