Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [atb] youth climbing and injuries: Edit Log




aerili


Feb 26, 2013, 10:46 AM

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Registered: Jan 12, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [atb] youth climbing and injuries
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atb wrote:
I have told her that she should just be having fun, enjoying the sport and not worrying about competitions. I also told her she should let me know right away if she ever experiences any pain in her hands or anywhere else but so far she has not. Is there anything else I should do?

Thanks for your advice.

Adam

Hi Adam,

I have a professional background in exercise science and training and your attitude is exactly right about "how" to promote and engage kids in physical activity --> focus on fun, not competition. It doesn't mean they can't be competitive/compete, but the ultimate goals should not be about winning and performing.

You are right to be concerned about injury as well. Climbers seem to think young people never get injured because they just recover so quickly, but it ain't the case.

Edited to add: I feel uneasy personally trusting coaches to know how much is too much. A lot of coaches know little to nothing about training well. Also, they certainly don't follow their players long term to know outcomes. So keep that in mind. But it's good to bring up your concerns and keep them aware.

Lastly, someone suggested "stretch and warm up". Stretching (statically) IS NOT a warm up. You want tissues (especially in the upper body) to be stiff, not compliant, for climbing. Stretching will not help this. Stretching is not known to prevent injury anymore, either. Dynamic range of motion exercises are okay, however.

I would only recommend stretching once your daughter has climbed enough to start feeling pumped. Static forearm and finger stretching can help ease pump more quickly.


(This post was edited by aerili on Feb 26, 2013, 10:52 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by aerili () on Feb 26, 2013, 10:52 AM


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