Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [maldaly] Bouldering without a mat: Edit Log

Partner camhead

Mar 14, 2013, 10:40 AM

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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
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Re: [maldaly] Bouldering without a mat
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maldaly wrote:
What do Mark Wilford, Steve Mammen, Malcolm Daly, Dave Bohn, Jim Holloway, Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo, John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, Doug Robinson, Peter Croft, Billy Westbay, Peter Hahn, Pat Ament, John Gill and many many others have in common?

None of them ever bouldered with a mat.

Any questions?

This is true, but all of these guys were well-versed in more old school, traditional philosophies that took falls and calculated risks much more seriously.

Furthermore, a lot of old-school boulder problems are very short (2-3 moves, in the case of Holloway's hardest lines), and have great landings. Longer problems were actually put up as topropes, even by luminaries like Gill or Bob Murray. Shit, all the classic v6-8s on the north face of the Mushroom Boulder were originally topropes. Highball solos like The Thimble were NOT the norm even back then.

Most climbers coming out of the gym today are going to take falls less seriously than the names that you mentioned. Most more recently developed bouldering areas and problems (Horsepens, LRC, Joe's Valley, most of Hueco) were put up with the assumption that people repeating problems would have pads and spotters. And finally, toproping (either solo or belayed), is WAY more frowned upon nowadays for boulder problems than it was in the 1970s.

Short version, don't go start bouldering without a pad or spotter just because you think all the mythical heroes of past generations did. If you do, you'll get hurt.

(This post was edited by camhead on Mar 14, 2013, 10:43 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by camhead () on Mar 14, 2013, 10:43 AM

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