Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [lena_chita] Broken carabiner in a lead fall.: Edit Log


Apr 1, 2013, 2:12 PM

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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
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Re: [lena_chita] Broken carabiner in a lead fall.
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lena_chita wrote:
The general take-home message for me is to:
-double-check your draws, to make sure they are hanging properly and not snagged or twisted
-avoid kicking or shifting your draws as you climb past them
-look down and double-check that you haven’t kicked them
-be mindful of the fact that you really aren’t out of the “danger zone” when sport climbing until you are fairly high up
-avoid falling when you have only one draw clipped.

The point highlighted in blue implies that the point highlighted in green should also apply to the second, third, and often the fourth bolt or even the fifth. However, adhering to such a rule would adversely affect one's performance as a sport climber, which suggests that we should look for other ways to prevent breaking carabiners. We should be careful about not shrugging off the orientation of the draw wrt to the direction of the climbing above it, or the orientation of the biners with respect to each other (the cis/trans debate). Perhaps, when hanging project draws, we should use locking biners on the bolt end or "clip and flip" the top biner.

(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 1, 2013, 2:13 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Apr 1, 2013, 2:13 PM

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