Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [jt512] Broken carabiner in a lead fall.: Edit Log


Apr 2, 2013, 2:53 PM

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Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 366

Re: [jt512] Broken carabiner in a lead fall.
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jt512 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
jt512 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
But then I go back to that specific route, that specific move... and I can see only couple possibilities that do not involve placing a permadraw there, or screw-gate draws:
-- hang a trad draw on that bolt, instead of a regular sewn dogbone, because it would be less likely that nudging the rope-end biner (unavoidable in the move I do) will dislodge the bolt-side biner
-- don't climb that route again

You don't think that flipping the top biner over would have been effective?

Maybe it would have. But playing around after the fact, my partner was able to get the biner stuck on that bolt/rock, regardless of how it was flipped and which way the gate was facing.

I don't know why I didn't think to mention this before, since I do it pretty often, is to place two draws on the bolt with their gates opposed.

Do you tend to do this in ground fall territory only? If not, what is your criteria for doubling up? Just curious as I'm sure I could learn something here.

(This post was edited by shotwell on Apr 2, 2013, 2:54 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by shotwell () on Apr 2, 2013, 2:54 PM

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