Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Black Diamond Guide ATC Issue: Edit Log


Apr 6, 2013, 6:11 PM

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Registered: Jun 24, 2011
Posts: 17

Black Diamond Guide ATC Issue
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A very knowledgeable guide brought up an issue with this device, and I'd like other opinions. Consider having a rope 9.5mm or less. Set up an autoblock to belay your follower on a trad climb. Now consider a great load (fall) from the climber's strand while the belayer has the brake strand pushed forward a bit inside the ATC (pulling the excess). The ropes cross each other and get lodged on opposite ends of the ATC interior (follower strand on the teeth). In order to fix it under load, you'll need to leverage the ATC upward to pop the strands back into place. This is a very dangerous situation, and while it may not happen 999/1000 times, it's worth keeping in the back of your mind.

It's not difficult to create this scenario on your own, if you'd like to test it out. Obviously you can tie a safety knot of your choosing to prevent this from happening, but only if you are a thoughtful climber. What do you guys think?

I can really imagine this happening when climbing in 3s on thin double ropes.

(This post was edited by tj2870 on Apr 6, 2013, 7:35 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by tj2870 () on Apr 6, 2013, 6:17 PM
Post edited by tj2870 () on Apr 6, 2013, 7:35 PM

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