Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [notapplicable] Black Diamond ATC issue: Edit Log




bearbreeder


Apr 7, 2013, 1:45 AM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [notapplicable] Black Diamond ATC issue
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nothing is "foolproof" ... not belaying off the harness, not with a redirect, etc ...

but a properly used autoblock in a seconding scenario is pretty damn unlikely to fail ... thousands use em every day, every climbing season ... and you dont hear off too many people getting dropped off em, generally someone brings up the accident of the misrigged ATC guide of someone lowering ... user error

i use my alpine smart, atc guide and till a partner dropped it the reverso for thousands of pitches, bringing up one or two followers on ropes from 8-10.5mm

there are tons of better climbers and guides who use it much more than me for much longer on everything from humid jungles to the frozen arctic ... on screaming newbies they need to drag up

this has all been discussed before and argued to death

http://www.mountainproject.com/...c-guide/106838345__1

http://willgadd.com/...her-winter-thoughts/

http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/...locking-belay-plate/

the simple fact of the matter is that barring idiot who doesnt know how to use it properly ... you wont die from the autoblock

you MAY however die from people who pretend to know how to use it, especially if they learn off the intrawebs ... i was almost killed by one ...

is it the autoblocks fault? ... nope .. no more than someone being dropped on a munter is the munters fault ...

i did a run up an easy 6 pitcher monday using the deadly autobloc ... its a wonder im still alive ...


as to "superflous" ... i have one simple word on multi ... ROCKFALL

Wink


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Apr 7, 2013, 1:48 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Apr 7, 2013, 1:48 AM


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