Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [moose_droppings] Black Diamond ATC issue: Edit Log


Apr 7, 2013, 7:57 PM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
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Re: [moose_droppings] Black Diamond ATC issue
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moose_droppings wrote:
Looks like fun route, by why are there so many loose rocks getting knocked off by experienced climbers on the most popular mutipitch route (heavily travelled) in the Canadian Rockies?

if youve climbed it youll find out Wink

the 1 hour hike up the scree field burns into your mind about how serious rockfall is an issue ... if it doesnt you need to have yr head checked

every ledge is littered with smaller broken off rocks ... if you look at the bottom left of the photo i posted, youll see rocks just lying on a small ledge ... every ledge had those rocks, bigger ones had more ...

theres loose rocks everywhere out there ... even at the most popular g-bang crag (grassi) youll usually see fists sized rocks come down all the time

we were almost killed at a place called heart creek ... on a popular wall the climber stepped on a hold and the entire thing broke away ... if we werent under an overhang we be killed and the climber i was belaying would be dead as well if they werent on a smart in that case

theres only so much you can control as the party on top .. you dont throw rocks down and do your best to avoid loose rock, but footholds break and the rope dislodges rocks as well

if there is a party on a multi route above you, its often a wise idea to just walk away and do a different route ... the guidebook indicates NOT to rap certain routes as it greatly increases the risk for other parties

in the canadian rockies, if you know theres a party above you and you decide to climb under em ... you take your chances


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Apr 7, 2013, 8:25 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Apr 7, 2013, 8:18 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Apr 7, 2013, 8:25 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Apr 7, 2013, 8:25 PM

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