Forums: Climbing Information: General: Dangerous belaying?: Edit Log


Apr 18, 2013, 6:12 AM

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Registered: Apr 18, 2013
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Dangerous belaying?
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I was at Devil's Lake, WI last fall and we came to a spot with a college group there also. They had a girl belaying in a very awkward way:

Her brake hand was upside-down above the belay device, parallel to her guide hand. This might have been ok with a self-locking device, but this was a conventional tube device. There was no way she would have been able to catch the guy if he fell (luckily he didn't)
When she took in slack she would pull up the rope with the brake hand, let go of it, and then move it back down to the previous unsafe position. The only time during the climb hat she actually locked the rope was at the end to lower him down.

I told her it was dangerous and said why, but she told me "it's ok; that's how I was taught!"

well ok then...

I didn't say anything else after that, but at least now she knows that if she ever does drop a climber she should consider checking her method.
I'm not blaming her btw; I'm blaming whoever taught her. That person obviously didn't care or didn't know themself how to do this safely.

Anyone else seen this kind of thing before? I don't usually point out to people things like this, but holy crap this was bad. I mean, this was pretty much what I was thinking when I saw her belaying like this...

(This post was edited by Gdog42 on Apr 20, 2013, 10:12 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by Gdog42 () on Apr 20, 2013, 10:12 AM

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