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Re: [shockabuku] Dangerous belaying...:
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Gdog42
Apr 20, 2013, 5:36 PM
Views: 2597
Registered: Apr 18, 2013
Posts: 30
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shockabuku wrote: Nothing wrong with the method for sport climbing where you can see your climber but it does require you to be attentive and react appropriately. Of course, your belayer should do that anyway. I belay like that for TR because I find it much easier and on TR I don't have to worry about my climber free-falling before the rope comes tight. Perhaps when you have more experience you'll develop a different opinion about it.
Yes, you're completely right about this being ok for sport climbing, in which you have to pay out constant slack to the climber (unless he/she clips into a draw and then asks me to take in slack for whatever reason)
Last week my friend was leading a rope and I was belaying him, and I was using this method for that.
My complaint was that she was belaying a top roper like this with an ATC. She could have at least locked the rope when possible. It might be because I'm from the UK and there, most people are taught to belay with ATCs so that the rope is always locked off between movements. Because of this I honestly never saw anyone else there belay like this on a top rope without a self-locking device.
I only just started climbing in the US last year, so when I went out and saw this I guess it was a bit of a surprise. What also surprised me (when I was at Red River, KY earlier last year) was how I didn't see anyone using an autoblock when abseiling down 60+ft routes when cleaning the anchors. Most European climbers always do this.
I don't know if this is also common practice in the US, but I'm glad I found out I was just over-reacting about this because I might have asked about lacking an autoblock on this forum, too.
Same goes with Figure 8 devices; so far I haven't seen anyone here using them, but I prefer the ATCs anyway!
Oh well, looks like I'll just have to get more used to American climbing customs.
Sorry about this, people. I suppose making myself look kind of daft wasn't exactly the best way to start my first thread on this forum, but sometimes that's just the way things are. 
If I could I'd give you all free bacon for accidentally wasting your time! 
(This post was edited by Gdog42 on Apr 20, 2013, 5:40 PM)
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Post edited by Gdog42
() on Apr 20, 2013, 5:40 PM
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