Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Re: [TradEddie] Active climbers at the gap (Mt. Minsi): Edit Log




Sanguma


May 22, 2013, 4:28 AM

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Registered: Feb 23, 2013
Posts: 7

Re: [TradEddie] Active climbers at the gap (Mt. Minsi)
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Thanks for the info, TradEddie. From the little I've heard about Keith it sounds like he put in a tremendous amount of effort establishing and cleaning routes at the Gap. I, like probably many of the people on this site, feel some guilt about my own laziness and how little I've given back to the crags I've climbed at. Perhaps I'll start doing more. I monkey around rope soloing on my own at the Gap sometimes, and it'd be easy for me to tidy up a few routes.

On a separate note, I saw that there's a parallel discussion going on at Mountain Project which is starting to touch on the topic of adding bolts to already established "scary" routes in the Gap. First let me say that everyone is doing the right thing and discussing the issue with the community before grabbing a drill and doing the job, which is good. But here's what I ask - before suggesting a new bolt on this site or any other, or even before discussing the issue with the first ascensionist, go out and lead the route a half dozen times, because climbers often miss things the first few times. If you're creative and look around enough, you'll often find the gear you're looking for. In my opinion, the gear on Crackpot and Martin's Fall (even on the traverse) is more than adequate, and bolts aren't needed on either, although Crackpot already has a few. Those are two of the routes being discussed on Mountain Project. If a bolt was added to Martin's Fall, next you'd see them on the Ribcage, Corkscrew, Chieftan - it'd be endless. I'd ask everyone to think seriously of the way they lead routes. Climbers spend more time in "dangerous fall" territory than they think, they just don't realize it because they find the climbing easy and simply feel they won't fall. Who hasn't ran out an easy protectionless 5.4 section??? Do you think those sections should be bolted??? It's all about perspective. In many people's perspective, the traverse on Martin's Fall is just as easy. Bolting Martin's Fall would be like bolting every 5.4 runout you've ever done.


(This post was edited by Sanguma on May 22, 2013, 4:46 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Sanguma () on May 22, 2013, 4:46 AM


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